Wholesome hearty ingredients in vibrant hues are the stars of this delicious chicken curry and creative twist on a classic broccoli soup
Photos by David Uhrin / Food styling by Leona Baker / All Recipes by Yasmine Charles
When summer begins to lose its sparkle and our hearts turn to all things fall, comfort foods often come to mind. But soul-satisfying soups, stews and, as you’ll see in these pages, curries can also nourish the mind, body and spirit without sacrificing nutrition.
Here, Norfolk-based Haitian American chef, food writer and educator Yasmine Charles shares her passion for inspiring others to live and eat well with two recipes that are bursting with color, flavor and wholesome, hearty ingredients perfect for fueling your fire this fall.
One is a deliciously healthy take on a pureed broccoli soup (minus the cream and cheese but no less craveable) and the other is a Jamaican chicken curry that, as Charles notes, is “all about flavor, color and spice.”
—Leona Baker
Chicken Curry with Coconut and Bok Choy
(photo above)
When it comes to curry chicken, “the secret’s in the sauce.” Ask any chef what their favorite film is, and they will probably mention Ratatouille, starring the rat chef Remy. Mine is Fried Green Tomatoes, a 1991 comedy drama centered on The Whistle Stop Café in Alabama starring Jessica Tandy, Kathy Bates and Cicely Tyson.
Ms. Tyson’s character Sipsey, a cook at the café, delivered one of the most memorable and iconic lines, “The secret’s in the sauce” after the sheriff who was in town to investigate Frank Bennett’s mysterious murder praised the barbecue she served him.
Coconut milk and curry powder are a match made in culinary heaven. Coconuts, known as noix de coco in French, are the seeds from one of the largest fruits. Coconut is most often used in pastries and candies and is also a staple in Caribbean and Asian cuisine. It has a mild aroma and a sweet, nutty flavor.
Coconut milk used to make our sauce in this recipe is traditionally made by grating the white flesh and mixing it with hot water and straining the mixture. Growing up in a Haitian household, I have made coconut milk all of my life and I discovered that the canned comes pretty close to homemade and is time efficient.
The cooking technique is key in this dish. For example, the chicken will sweat in its own natural gravy under low heat, releasing all the juices with none of the usual boiling.
In addition, according to French chef and culinary educator, the late Madeleine Kamman, “it is essential to cook the curry powder in oil to tame the raw taste.” In her culinary bible, The New Making of a Cook, she writes, “never add curry powder to any dish without precooking it in a fat or making a paste of it with water or broth.” I’ve tested that theory, and she’s correct.
—Yasmine Charles
Ingredients
Serves 4
2 lbs. of bone-in chicken legs and thighs
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tbsp of fresh lime juice
2 tbsp of grapeseed or avocado oil
2 tbsp of curry powder
¼ tsp of red pepper flakes
1 tsp of chili powder
1 tbsp of brown sugar
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp of ginger, peeled, sliced thin
1 large red onion, medium dice
1 tbsp of shrimp paste
10 allspice berries (Jamaican pepper)*
1 cup of coconut milk, unsweetened
1 bag of baby bok choy, about 6, chopped
1 large red bell pepper, deseeded, large dice
Directions
1. Remove the skin and excess fat from the chicken. Wash under cold water and pat dry with paper towels.
2. Season the chicken with the lime juice, salt and pepper, and leave to marinate for 4 hours in the fridge.
3. Heat the oil in a stainless-steel pot until it is hot, then add the curry, chili powder, brown sugar, and red pepper flakes over medium heat. Cook and stir for about 20 seconds. Use a wooden spoon. You will want to open a window.
4. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until you smell the garlic. Do not brown.
5. Add the chicken, onion, shrimp paste and allspice. Stir to completely coat the chicken. Lower the heat, cover with a lid, and leave it to simmer for 20 minutes. Let the chicken sweat in its own gravy without adding liquid. Keep checking the pot to make sure the meat is not getting scorched on the bottom.
6. After 20 minutes, add the coconut milk, bring to a boil, turn the heat down, cover with the lid, and leave to simmer for another 20 minutes.
7. Turn off the heat, add the bok choy, the red bell, cover with the lid, and steam cook for 5-7 minutes. The goal is al dente, cooked and still firm to the tooth. We want to keep the crunch and the vibrant red and green colors.
8. Once the vegetables are done, check the curry for seasoning and serve with steamed jasmine rice.
Et Voila!! Chef’s kiss.
*The allspice berries can be left in or carefully removed before serving.
Puree of Broccoli Soup with Sherry and Turmeric
Purée soups are hearty soups made by cooking legumes or vegetables in a liquid, then pureeing all or a portion of them to thicken at the end. Just as professional makeup artists know that the most beautiful makeup look begins with a good foundation, all good cooks know that stock or broth is the secret to a great soup, a great sauce, and a great stew.
Regular stock is fantastic, but the Vietnamese Pho stock used in this recipe sets the soup apart. Pho stock is made with aromatic flavors and exotic spices. You can make your own (see recipe in the online version of this story at coastalvirginiamag.com) or purchase it at an Asian grocery or Vietnamese restaurant such as Pho 79.
This first course soup is supported by red potato for thickness and by a mirepoix (onions, celery and carrots) and sherry for flavoring. Turmeric, a golden spice known as Indian saffron used in traditional medicine in Southeast Asia, adds color, iron and vitamin C. Its flavor is unique and strong.
I left the skin on the potatoes in this recipe because the skin, particularly on red potatoes, has more fiber, potassium and magnesium than the flesh. It is OK to eat potato skin if it is not green. Compared to Idaho, red potatoes have a creamy and sweet texture making them ideal for soups. Just be sure to brush and rinse them well.
—Yasmine Charles
Ingredients
Serves 6-8
3 tbsp of olive oil
1 cup of onions, diced coarse
½ cup of celery, diced coarse
½ cup of carrots, diced coarse
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 medium red potatoes, skin on, cut into 1-inch dice
2 heads of broccoli, cut into florets
6 cups of pho stock (see above)
½ cup of sherry
2 tsp of turmeric powder
1 tsp of powdered chicken bouillon
¼ tsp of crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
Salt and white pepper, to taste
Croutons, olive oil, and red pepper flakes for garnish
Directions
1. In a large heavy-bottom sauce pot, sauté the onions, carrots and celery in the oil under medium heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown.
2. Add the garlic, potatoes, broccoli and saute over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Cover with a lid, stirring a couple of times.
3. Add the pho stock, sherry, turmeric, chicken bouillon and crushed pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook until vegetables are tender, 15-20 minutes.
4. Allow the soup to cool for 10 minutes and purée through a food mill, blender or food processor.
5. Return the soup to the stove and thicken it to the consistency you like.
6. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper.
7. Just before serving, garnish with croutons, olive oil, and pepper flakes.
About Yasmine Charles
Yasmine Charles is a Haitian American chef, food writer, educator and Norfolk State University alumna. She taught food science and gastronomy at Stratford University’s School of Culinary Arts in Virginia Beach, and prior to serving as a cook in the U.S. Navy, she worked as a pastry cook in Manhattan after completing her culinary education at The New York Restaurant School. Her first book, The Cost of the American Dream, chronicles her life, a chef’s story about food, trauma and resilience.When she’s not in the kitchen or doing research for her YouTube channel (@yasminescookingshow), she advocates for migrants and homeless veterans.
