New Restaurants to Try in 2021: Fin & Tonic

Fin And Tonic Featured

It would be easy to return nightly to chef-owner Kenny Sloane’s Fin & Tonic, where small plates loom large in a more casual iteration of his original Fin Seafood in Newport News, happily sampling one’s way through his comforting yet imaginative menu of (mostly) surf and (some) turf. And if the residents of 3800 Acqua at Bridgeport, the north Suffolk planned community where the restaurant is located, have not yet worn a path to a steaming bowl of his beloved She Crab Soup or a stack of his much-marveled-over Tuna Tartare with sriracha ice cream, they should.

It would also be wise to heed the chef’s lunch recommendations, such as those on a recent visit that arrived with a hint of fanfare and plenty of delicately balanced flavor. Smokey Salmon served beneath a glass dome that is lifted to reveal a still-smoking, pecan-crusted filet atop a sweet potato puree with sorghum soy glaze. And the perennial favorite Crab Cake, pan seared with sinfully sweet corn sauce, sweet potatoes, parsnips, kohlrabi and truffle oil powder. Both delightful.

Yet, one could do all the above and even throw in the occasional adventure with grilled octopus or splurge on the Holy Grail of steak, A5 Wagyu, and still not have the full Fin & Tonic experience. That’s because there’s an ingeniously hidden speakeasy tucked into the corner of the bar. Behind a door painted like a crab, fans of fantastical mixology will find a Victorian-inspired space serving the requisite Old Fashioneds and other crafty cocktails galore. No secret password necessary.

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Leona Baker
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