Where Even the Burger Has a Cult-Like Following
The last year and change have been a rollercoaster ride for Chef Stephen Marsh and the legions of devoted diners, like myself, who were devastated by the news that his restaurant, LeGrand, was closing at its original location on North Colley.
“I opened LeGrand Kitchen eight years ago as a 450 square foot diner with 16 seats,” wrote Marsh in the online fundraiser he created to help relocate the business.
From the beginning, the “finer diner” was bursting at the seams, and they quickly expanded into the old barbershop next door. Even then it remained one of the hardest seats in town to snag, with no reservations and throngs of foodies willing to wait outside for hours for a table or bar seat.
Inside those four walls and eight years, Marsh steadily broadened our palates and blew our minds with diverse ingredients and inspired flavor combinations (like, stuffed pig trotter with chicken mousseline; geoduck clams with oranges and celery; veal sweetbreads with morels and fiddleheads), all from a cramped little open kitchen and tiny stovetop.
And then there’s the legendary LeGrand burger—a classic and crave-worthy take that would make Ralph Fiennes’ chef character in The Menu shed a tear. The burger alone has such a cult following it could warrant its own restaurant.
A few years in, Marsh did open a second venture—Shiptown, a high-end seafood concept; then Hoyt’s Luncheonette, a daytime diner, in a spot across the street. But ultimately, he resolved to focus on the one business.
During the pandemic, many beloved establishments like it shuttered, but Marsh and his team were quick to pivot. Their takeout meals and brief but joyous interactions with the community literally saved them. The kitchen was flush with orders every night.
“I had a really good friend who we lost because he couldn’t cope mentally,” Marsh says. “After that it became really important to me that we come in every day and see each other and our customers and keep each other going.”
In the end, though, it was the volatile real estate market that precipitated the move. At the close of 2022, the building that houses LeGrand went up for sale at an eye-watering price, forcing Marsh to consider options with more space, more parking, less repair work and fewer flooding issues.
Enter Christopher Glover, owner of Crackers Little Bar Bistro, a nearby restaurant that helped launch the careers of Marsh and many other local culinary talents. Glover was himself looking to “downsize” to one restaurant at the Oceanfront and reached out to Marsh with an offer.
“It just made perfect sense,” Marsh says.
So, with the help of 300 GoFundMe donors, Marsh secured the well-known Riverview location that was formerly Crackers without the backing of any silent partners or angel investors; and by April, LeGrand was back open for business.
In its spacious new home, the ambience at LeGrand is a lot more relaxed, welcoming and luxurious. With its expansive bar area, they’ve been able to create a stellar cocktail program. And though the open kitchen may be gone, Marsh is still quick to pop out and say hi when he sees restaurant regulars.
“I knew there was no way in hell we could emulate the old location, and change throws people for a loop.” Marsh says. “But the burger is exactly the same as you remembered it, and our staff is basically all the same people.”
Marsh’s goals for the future of LeGrand 2.0?
“We’re gonna have fun and do good and be proud,” says Marsh. “That’s what I want.”
Learn more at legrandkitchen.com.
See us in the pages of the 2024 Food Issue.
Hannah Serrano
Hannah Serrano is director of sales & marketing at the TASTE Family of Businesses and former marketing director at O'Connor Brewing Co. Hannah is a passionate foodie and beer nerd. Her advocacy for local culture developed as an arts editor at Port Folio Weekly, culture contributor at WVEC-13, owner of AltDaily.com, and co-organizer of Norfolk's NEON District.
