Noted winemaker joins Gauthier and more news from Virginia’s newest AVA
By Marisa Marsey
British-born Matthew Meyer, formerly Williamsburg Winery’s longtime winemaker and executive vice president, recently joined Gauthier Vineyard to boost the burgeoning, woman/veteran-owned New Kent County enterprise to the next level.
It’s a bit like post-Beatles Paul McCartney launching Wings. And this University of California, Davis, alum—who started at storied Napa names like Heitz and Grgich Hills before growing Williamsburg Winery to one of Virginia’s foremost wineries—savors the challenge.
“The potential for this place is amazing,” he says, standing on Gauthier’s country-causal tasting room’s wraparound verandah, gazing at its gazebo-dotted vineyard. A fountain jets up from a natural pond, mirroring his exuberance.
Mo and Sandi Gauthier began their eponymous 150-acre vineyard and winery in 2010, planting Norton grapes o]n the picturesque property and securing a satellite vineyard in Shenandoah Valley to access more varietals and a crush facility.
They brought Meyer onboard as winemaker and chief operating officer, overseeing all operations including e-commerce, marketing and rebranding. He points out new labels distinguished by four gold bars, a quiet nod to the Gauthiers’ military careers; both are retired Navy captains.
They aim to juice up production from 1,500 cases per year (a couple thousand is average in Virginia) to 4,000 by 2027, then upwards to 8,000. Meyer is editing their portfolio of reds and whites with plans to add more of “what Virginia does well” like Tannat, create new blends and erect a second custom crush facility on-property.
“Everyone who visits says they feel like they’re at a friend’s home,” Meyer observes. He wants to preserve that relaxed vibe but visualizes ways to expand given all the venue offers including an events center, whole-house-rental inn and, bordering the vineyard, an equestrian center.
“I can picture a slushie shack there,” he says, indicating a woodshed near the already-popular wood-fired pizza oven. Regular events center around local oysters and lowcountry boils. Gauthier even cultivates six varieties of shiitakes for select chefs.
Multitasking suits Meyer, harking back to his college days doing odd jobs in the Sierra Foothills and later, dipping down to Mendoza, Argentina, to make wine during the Northern Hemisphere’s off-season. Such experiences inform his educational tasting series at Gauthier called “Wines Around the World with the Winemaker.” (“I know that’s a lot of w’s,” he jokes.)
He wants to gin up collaboration among the other five wineries comprising the Virginia Peninsula AVA (American Viticultural Area, an appellation of origin denoting specific geographic/climactic features), creating a world-class wine destination. Meyer and Williamsburg Winery founder Patrick Duffeler spearheaded efforts to bring Virginia’s eighth, and newest, AVA to fruition in 2021.
Other Happenings at Virginia Peninsula Wineries
Along roadways labeled Pocahontas Trail and Washington-Rochambeau Highway, the compact region is rich in American history as well as viticulture. “You can visit each winery and have a different experience,” Meyer says. “Each is unique.”
Start at Upper Shirley Vineyards southeast of Richmond, where grapes and cotton grow side-by-side. You can’t belly up to the bar for tastings here; reserve a table for flights at its full-service restaurant whose menu boasts lobster rolls, tomato alfredo salmon and smash burgers.
Continue on to Jolene Family Winery. It’s easy-to-miss, hidden behind a strip plaza, but U-turn-worthy. Discovering its tucked-away location makes the lakeside vista with its cluster of private lounge tents all the more enchanting. Last June, Jolene built a new pavilion to accommodate more wedding guests (up to 120). Catch the idyllic site on Travel Channel’s “Destination Divas” in early 2025.
Vermentino, a refreshing white wine, is all the rage at New Kent Winery, a handsome twofer encompassing Talleysville Brewing Company. Owners Joe and Jo Anna Dombroski encountered Vernaccia on an Italian vacation a while back when a restaurateur insisted Joe, who favors reds, try it. He hailed it the best white he’s ever had.
“They ordered rootstock for Vermentino, Vernaccia’s shippable cousin, and hand-planted the vines. We’re sending Vermentino to the Governor’s Cup for 2025,” gushes Leslie Bowery, tasting room lead, referring to the state’s most prestigious wine competition.
At Saudé Creek, resembling a mountain lodge without the ear-popping altitude, they’re excited about crisp, citrusy Chardonel, a Chardonnay-Seyval Blanc hybrid originated at Cornell.
A new vino-themed LOVE sign welcomes you to Williamsburg Winery, perennially Coastal Virginia Magazine’s Overall Gold Winner for Best Winery. As Duffeler retires to France, new leadership sustains his vision, promoting Stacey Lightfoot, in her 18th year at WW, to head winemaker.
Recent hires include Shane Henderson, formerly of Newport News’ NEST, as events chef, and Riccardo Rinaldi as executive chef. A Tuscan native, Rinaldi spent two decades at prominent Washington, D.C., restaurants, Ristorante Tosca (executive chef) and two Michelin-starred Minibar by José Andrés (sous chef).
At Williamsburg Winery’s Gabriel Archer Tavern, he leans farm-to-table, partnering with local growers and compounding what’s produced on property such as honey from ten hives in the vineyard. The bees arrived about six months ago. Around the same time he did.
Photo at top of page courtesy of Consociate Media.
Marisa Marsey
Marisa Marsey is a food, beverage and travel writer whose awards include 1st place Food Writing from the Virginia Press Association. A Johnson & Wales University representative, she has sipped Château d'Yquem '75 with Jean-Louis Palladin, sherpa-ed for Edna Lewis and savored interviews with Wolfgang Puck and Patrick O’Connell.
