Luce

Antonio “Tony” Caruana set Luce (Italian for light, pronounced loo-chay) in this turbocharged, high-octane, sardine tin-tiny Granby Street spot over a decade ago, showcasing his knack for “paying respect to the origins and traditions of Italian food and fusing it together with my own twist, taste and flair.” He dreams up dishes “in his helmet” astride a Harley and soulfully renders specialties reminiscent of Italian seaside towns, rustic villages and major cities like Mafaldine de Guanciale (curly-edged pasta ribbons with tender pork jowl/cheek), Hunters Sausage, Sotto Scallops (seared, placed atop fennel risotto, drizzled with Sambuca), Veal Chop Milanese, Lobster Gnocchi.

Well-trained bartenders and waitstaff deftly serve them (even late night, which our panelists appreciate) at a zigging bar and handful of predominantly high-top tables. This numero uno attests that good things come in small packages. In Chesapeake, a newer Luce Secondo proves they can come in grand, glitzy ones, too.