Open just over a year, Prime Mediterranean in Topping offers modern twists on regional classics and dishes that taste as glamorous as they look
Sometimes the best things come as a delightful surprise. I was both delighted and surprised by Prime Mediterranean, a new restaurant located off the beaten path (at least for Southsiders) in Middlesex County and serving a mélange of dishes from Italy, Greece, Southern Spain, France, Turkey and other coastal countries of the Mediterranean region.
There is nothing monochromatic about the tantalizing plates emerging from the kitchen of chefs Heather Minter and Jonathan “JL” Lewis. Feast your eyes on a Golden Beet Neapolitan with honey roasted sliced beets, herb whipped goat cheese and arugula dressed in lemon vinaigrette with citrus pistachio gremolata.
Behold the Land & Sea top sirloin filet paired with bronzed scallops over a sunny hued saffron cream sauce with Greek style lemon-roasted potatoes and crisp, vibrant garden vegetables. This is a kaleidoscope of colors and flavors that taste as glamorous as they look.
But perhaps it shouldn’t be a surprise. Prime Mediterranean owners J.C. and Mac Casale bring decades of experience in the restaurant business including successes at The White Dog, a fine dining destination at Matthews Courthouse, and Hole in the Wall, which has enlivened the Matthews waterfront with its rustic charm and fresh, friendly fare since 2018.
When the pair purchased the former Eckhard’s Restaurant in Topping in 2021 along with business partner Dean Tsamouras, they knew they wanted to honor the location’s legacy as a beloved destination known for its unusual marriage of German and Italian cuisine and steaks. But they also wanted to make it their own.
J.C. hails from a long line of Italian chefs and restaurant owners but is also “super health conscious,” explains Mac. Hence Prime’s focus on Italian and Mediterranean flavor profiles with modern twists and a commitment to cooking with good quality oils, utilizing regional ingredients as much as possible and offering lighter preparations alongside a nice selection of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options.
Luckily, healthful and flavorful go hand-in-hand here, and there is plenty on the menu to indulge the senses and satisfy even the most meat-loving of appetites or sweetest of sweet tooths. After all, dining out is meant to be fun.
“The celebration is the key cornerstone of our fine dining restaurants,” explains J.C. “We want people to be immersed in the experience, but we also want them to have fun. Because life is too short. You have to enjoy yourself.”
The immersion begins with the restaurant’s visuals, courtesy of a design update that included a refreshed façade outside, featuring a warm wood gable emblazoned with the Prime Mediterranean logo, natural brick and stone. Inside, diners are enveloped by an inviting contemporary vibe, the ceiling and accent walls awash in a muted Mediterranean turquoise.
An eclectic mixture of organic materials, pops of antique red, colorful art, creative seating, striking black and white ogee-patterned plates, and unique glassware complete the look. But there are also nods to the building’s past including a series of brass chandeliers that will be recognizable to Eckhard’s regulars.
The attention to aesthetic detail is just as apparent in the dishes being served. During my visit, my friend and I sampled and shared our way through their tempting array of starters. The Saffron Clam & Mussels Medley arrived with Prince Edward Island mussels and littleneck clams arranged with graceful geometric precision and served with a saffron cream sauce and toasted focaccia.
The Prosciutto & Artichoke Crudo was light, savory and satisfying all at once with two fresh mozzarella slices, each stacked with a grilled marinated artichoke heart draped with prosciutto, black garlic, and herb-infused olive oil and accented by balsamic pearls.
Their tasty takes on Arancini and Spanakopita are good examples, notes J.C., of how the kitchen team is making slight tweaks on tradition while also honoring regional favorites.
The Arancini—the classic street food typically made from rice, peas, meat and cheese, shaped into a ball, breaded and deep fried—features a chef’s choice of rotating ingredients mixed with risotto, crusted with panko and served with roasted red pepper romesco.
Their Spanakopita is a lovely presentation of the traditional spinach and cheese pie topped with a layer of flakey phyllo, baked to a golden hue in its own miniature dish—rather than in triangular pockets or cut squares—and garnished with sweet pepper jam.
For my entrée, I was dazzled by their beautifully balanced Pork Osso Bucco. This volcano pork shank is braised in red wine until it is fall-off-the-bone tender and arrives dramatically nestled in a shallow bowl of luscious Israeli couscous with sauteed root vegetables and topped with pistachio and citrus gremolata.
“Our artisan pasta dishes are also a strong point,” says Mac, “and our dry-aged steaks have also been very popular.”
Pasta lovers can go light and bright with dishes like the Sicilian Vegetable Primavera or Picatta with capellini, sauteed chicken, shrimp or veal scallopini. Or luxuriate in a classic Fettuccini Alfredo or the Short Rib Ragu with creamed gorgonzola-filled pasta.
For those in a red meat kind of mood, they’ve got the chops. The Poached Pear Glazed Pork Tomahawk, Bistro Filet or NY Strip & Shrimp are sure-fire choices.
For seafood, you can’t go wrong with Cioppino, the Italian-American fisherman’s stew, their version a mixture of shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, calamari and fish, accompanied by that delightful Israeli couscous in saffron seafood broth. Or savor healthy, freshly grilled fish with the Taste of the Sea dish, a seasonal filet in olive oil, lemon and herbs served with a side of spanakopita, olives, crispy leeks and sweet pepper jam.
Desserts are a must with simply delectable classics like Tiramisu and Crème Brûlée or the three-layer Chocolate Decadence Cake adorned with a soft ribbon of fresh whipped cream and raspberry pearls. We tried a special, the Indulgent Espresso Crème Brûlée with house-made dark chocolate sauce, and it was to-die-for.
The artistry continues behind the bar with a crafty collection of cocktails including the swoon-worthy Skinny Blood Orange Cosmo. It was so pretty, I almost didn’t want to drink it, but I am glad I did. With fresh blood orange juice and a splash of blood orange vodka served in a stunning beaded glass with a heart-shaped orange peel garnish, it added the perfect citrusy zing to complement to my meal.
Prime Mediterranean also showcases a sizable whiskey and bourbon menu (including their house Prime Vintage Private Barrell), premium gins, a well-rounded wine list and beer selection (including their house Perrindise Lager).
Be sure to look for rotating and seasonal food and drink specials, weekly features such Prime Rib Sundays and select holiday happenings and brunches. I know I’ll be back to try something called the Oysters Greekafella—“oysters with a Greek accent”—I heard tale of.
Open just over a year, Prime Mediterranean is a wonderful weeknight or date-night experience and worth the drive from Coastal Virginia points south and west for those craving classic Mediterranean fare with a modern twist in a relaxed, fine dining atmosphere.
Last but not least: Hole in the Wall fans will be excited to learn the Casales have plans in the works for a second location with a Cuban theme in Gloucester Point.
Prime Mediterranean is open Mondays and Thursday-Sunday for dinner, closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. The restaurant is located at the intersection of Greys Point Road and Locklies Creek Road in Topping, not far from Merroir Tasting Room and the Norris Bridge that leads to White Stone and Irvington.
Learn more at primemediterranean.com.
Photos by Jacqui Renager, Performance Foodservice Virginia
Leona Baker
Leona Baker is the former Editor-in-Chief of Coastal Virginia Magazine. She is a writer, creative, communications professional, food freak, news junkie, nature and travel lover and mom. She holds a degree in English from James Madison University and a degree in Dance & Choreography from Virginia Commonwealth University. She previously served as Senior Copywriter for Spark 451, Director of Marketing & Communications at Virginia Wesleyan University, and Senior Editor of Port Folio Weekly.
