A wellspring of unique and wonderful overnight stays let you explore the bounteous natural beauty of Virginia’s Eastern Shore in style this fall
By Eric J. Wallace / Photo above courtesy of Wander Cape Charles
Virginia’s Eastern Shore was long revered as a rural haven overflowing with some of the nation’s most unsullied natural coastal beauty. In-the-know hunters, fishers and outdoorsmen made pilgrimages from up and down the East Coast, exalting its 140-plus miles of wild barrier island shorelines, Chesapeake Bay beaches and inlets.
Twenty years of robust but targeted revitalization in flagship historic towns like Cape Charles, Chincoteague, and Onancock has brought a renaissance of metropolitan-grade spots to eat, drink, shop and stay, while helping to transform the Shore into a dream destination for lovers of the outdoors.
And fall is a particularly great time to visit.
Tens of thousands of acres of protected lands on the Atlantic Flyway—including nearly 100 percent of the Shore’s barrier islands—offer unparallelled birdwatching opportunities during fall migrations.
Hike, bike or golfcart around the paved and wooded trails of 14,000-plus-acre Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge on Assateague Island, for instance, and there are more than 300 avian species you have a good chance of spotting on any given day. Meanwhile, the refuge’s 14 miles of undeveloped beaches are a sheller’s Shangri-La.
Cooler weather makes for awesome kayaking through unique ecosystems in tidal creeks and marshes, or to wild islands with private beaches, incredible ocean views and a stunning wealth of shorebirds.
Miles of hiking trails in sprawling bayside preserves like Kiptopeke State Park and Savage Neck Dunes State Natural Area Preserve bring opportunities to explore coastal maritime forests and wetlands sans the swarming bugs.
Best of all: The peninsula is home to an abundance of cozy and interesting overnight accommodations. From a historic culinary inn in downtown Onancock to a posh boutique hotel overlooking the main street in Cape Charles, this list makes it easy to find the perfect basecamp for fall adventure.
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
The Refuge Inn, Chincoteague
This great, family-friendly boutique hotel sits less than a mile from the entrance to Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Expect rooms with spacious accommodations, sitting areas, nicely upgraded baths, classic beach-themed décor and private balconies. The property also features a heated indoor swimming pool, sauna and hot tub area, bike rentals and rescue horse sanctuary. refugeinn.com
The Charlotte Hotel & Restaurant, Onancock\
The eight-suite boutique dates to 1907 and offers some of the Shore’s best overnight amenities, with onsite New American farm-to-table eats to boot. Rooms are well appointed, uniquely decorated and feature touches like vintage wallpaper, antiques, memory foam mattresses and luxury bathrooms. The onsite restaurant and bar area has a cool speakeasy vibe and doubles as a gallery for local artists. Menus bring daily chef specials centered around fresh seafood and waterfowl. thecharlottehotel.com
Hotel Cape Charles, Cape Charles
Posh but affordable, this beautifully renovated 16-room boutique occupies a 120-year-old building on the town’s main drag. Expect large, suite-style rooms with chic modern décor and private balconies or patios with views of the harbor and town. Ample lounge areas boast soaring ceilings and an array of original art. hotelcapecharles.com
The Northampton Hotel, Cape Charles
This five-room, Cape Cod-style boutique hotel was established in the early 1940s and sits on the bayside corner of downtown. Catch incredible sunset views of the town harbor and Chesapeake Bay from a pair of expansive wraparound porches. Rooms feature private baths and have been impressively modernized. An onsite café dishes up delicious gourmet brunches and craft cocktails throughout the day. thenorthampton.com
INNS & BED-AND-BREAKFASTS
Channel Bass Inn, Chincoteague
Old-school charm and personability have made the historic bed-and-breakfast one of Main Street’s most beloved destinations. Pick from nine sizable, cozy and uniquely decorated rooms or suites. Enjoy a stroll through stunning gardens and indulge in a drink or two at numerous outside patios or seating nooks. The tiny onsite restaurant serves locally inspired, chef-driven breakfasts and decadent five-course dinners. channelbassinn.com
Colonial Manor Inn, Onancock
Find the Shore’s oldest bed-and-breakfast lodging on the outskirts of downtown Onancock in an elegant but unassuming Colonial revival-style manor that dates to 1882. Six comfortable rooms bring private baths and unique decorative themes like “Colonial Countryside” or “Beachfront Cottage.” The rooms, seating and dining areas — are filled with antiques and collectibles that celebrate both the town and building’s historic pedigree. Breakfasts are can’t-miss and included with the stay. colonialmanorinn.com
The Inn at Onancock, Onancock
A string of recent renovations have given this longtime favorite a regal refresh. Owners pay homage to the Victorian inn’s 1886 roots with refinished hardwood floors, molding and grand stairwells complimented by a marvelous collection of century-plus-old antiques like four poster beds, armoires, China hutches, and more. Its quintet of guest rooms bring commodious digs and lux private baths. An afternoon “Wine Down Hour” and multicourse breakfasts round out the package. innatonancock.com
Bay Haven Inn, Cape Charles
Find this nifty getaway in a turn-of-the-century Colonial Revival that sits on a quiet street in the heart of the Cape Charles Historic District by lush and lovely Central Park. Four ample, second-story guest rooms offer lavish comforts like sitting areas with marble tables, hand-carved bedframes and thoughtfully renovated baths with cast iron tubs, historic tile floors and pedestal sinks. Breakfasts are superb. bayhaveninnbnb.com
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
The Farmhouse at Chatham, Machipongo
Wine lovers and families alike will delight in a stay at a fabulously overhauled 1920 farmhouse on the backside of the Chatham Vineyards estate. The secluded three-bedroom, full-home rental lies nestled along the edge of a coastal forest, offers vineyard views from a screened-in front porch, and boasts a private dock on beautiful Church Creek. chathamvineyards.com/lodging
The Modern Beach House, Cape Charles
Midcentury modern refinement meets laidback Key West vibes in this three-bedroom, whole-home rental property (Wander or Airbnb) overlooking the Chesapeake Bay. Tucked into a sandy rise amid a manicured pine forest, its wall of floor-to-ceiling windows and doors provide nonstop views of the water and private beach. A wealth of architectural features like vaulted, wood-paneled, barrel ceilings and stunningly gorgeous bathrooms combine with custom period-style cabinets, furniture and décor to create a one-of-a-kind getaway. wander.com/property/wander-cape-charles
Holly Bluff Island Guest House, Cape Charles
The rugged, four-bedroom lodge dates to 1910, sits on a 183-acre private island and is the Shore’s lone public accommodation on a barrier island. Expect restored heart-pine flooring, cedar paneling and antiques like a farmhouse dining table or corner hutch topped with vintage decoys. A silent generator provides electricity while water comes from a rain cistern. A wraparound deck offers stunning views of private beaches, reedy marshes and neighboring islands. burnhamguides.com/holly-bluff
Key West Cottages, Chincoteague
An upscale but accessible themed resort community of fun, funky and pastel-colored Floridian cottages awaits on the corner of Chincoteague Road and Main Street overlooking Chincoteague Bay. Pick from 38 newish, uniquely decorated, one-story beach boxes that range from 368-square-foot couple’s suites to 661-square-foot two-bedroom, two-bath efficiencies that sleep five. All have full kitchens, living rooms, private porches and furnishings that would feel at home in a Hilton boutique. Perks include a central private pool, beach, dock and firepit area. Bike, paddleboard and kayak rentals come free with your stay. kwcottages.com
Kiptopeke State Park, Cape Charles
The 562-acre park sits on the Chesapeake Bay near the southern tip of the peninsula and is home to a fleet of eight cabins and yurts. The latter are basic but tucked into the forest on wood platforms with views of the bay. Cabins feel lavish for a state park with full kitchens, hardwood floors, stone fireplaces and wood-panel walls and ceilings. dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/kiptopeke
