These Coastal Virginia eateries have been going strong for 25 years or more
In our Dining Guide section, we feature some of our favorite eateries and dining establishments in the region, selected and listed by cuisine type, theme or geographic area. In this edition, it’s all about staying power. These are restaurants that have been around forever (well, at least a quarter of a century which is practically forever in restaurant years). Most are family-run and/or have longtime staff who might as well be family. Their secret sauce? Consistency. Ask, “What’s new,” and most reply, “Not much.” They refresh here and there, tweak this or that, but they don’t cave to fads. And as fitness gurus emphasize, consistency compounds; making updates to their descriptions a snap.
Aberdeen Barn Virginia Beach (Since 1966) This pitch-roofed icon on Northampton Boulevard is as big as a barn and so are its tomahawk ribeyes, dry-aged—along with other prime cuts–for 45 days in two on-site, glass-encased drying rooms. You can’t get more retro than its menu of steaks and seafood including bacon-wrapped scallops, escargot and lobster yet with farmhouse style all the rage, Aberdeen Barn remains unequivocally hip. aberdeenbarn.net
Berret’s Seafood Restaurant (Since 1983) Tom Austin shrewdly kept the name original owner Berret Violet bestowed upon this Merchants Square seafood showcase renowned for no-filler crabcakes; it was etched on every plate. Austin passed away in 2015 but his partner Richard Carr (executive chef since 1985) upholds the tradition of classic and seasonal scratch-made fare amid a nautical motif here and outdoors at alter ego Taphouse Grill. berrets.com
The Bier Garden (Since 1997) It’s forever Oktoberfest at the Osfolk family’s gemütlichkeit-suffused Olde Towne Portsmouth haunt for beerheads and those who count schnitzel and noodles among their favorite things. Whether seated in the breezeway or within the warren of low-ceilinged dining rooms or the rathskeller-ish bar, you’ll be transported to Bavaria via bratwurst and bock. Bring back a souvenir, perhaps lederhosen, from the gift shop. biergarden.com
Big Sam’s Inlet Café & Raw Bar (Since 1996) This salty Rudee Inlet shanty’s marquee proclaims, “We feed surfers and fishermen.” Apparently everybody else, too, given the overflow crowd nursing bloodies on weekend mornings while awaiting tables (a.m. happy hours daily!). Steamed shrimp, fajitas, blackened tuna tacos, wings, grilled Atlantic mahi-mahi and fried clams for lunch, dinner and late-night munchies offer more thrills than the jet ski and parasail kiosks next door. bigsamsrawbar.com
Black Angus (Since 1953) Once easy to dismiss as a tourist trap given its Oceanfront tenure, a Great Neck relocation dispels that misconception. The stunning storefront reveals a sophisticated interior with a soupçon of nostalgia: an original sign, bovine mascot and, on the menu, its late, legendary chef Spiros’ chicken amongst signature steaks (some Virginia grass-fed) and seafood, prepared by Spiros’ protégé, Scott Pyle. blackangusrestaurant.com
Coastal Grill (Since 1989) Jerry Bryan’s Great Neck mainstay graduated from homey to coastal cool when it—and the roast chicken—crossed the road (later adding another dining room for overflow/private affairs), but otherwise Coastal is constancy itself. Set your watch by acorn squash in fall, corn on the cob in summer, and expect the freshest, best fish and American fare prepared precisely by Mo Cucchiaro. Always. coastalgrill.com
Croc’s 19th Street Bistro (Since 1993) This community pillar (first Virginia Green restaurant, ViBe Creative District anchor) popular for its laidback, island-time flair recently sold to decades-long employees John Tharpe and Joey Habr who haven’t made dramatic alterations. There’s still a weekly Sunday drag brunch and Lebanese dishes, launched by former owner Kal Habr, among citrus-glazed tuna, bronzed salmon, braised beef short rib, handhelds and a lively bar scene. crocs19thstreetbistro.com
Dough Boy’s (Since 1989) Innovation is key for any successful business, even one that has been around as long as perennially popular pizza spot Dough Boy’s, with two locations at the VB Oceanfront. Family-owned since 1989, Dough Boy’s dropped in on a big one when they recently introduced THE WAVE, an ingenious combo calzone and pizza that features “a calzone wave crashing onto a Dough Boy’s Original Pizza.” This deliciously cheesy idea has been a huge hit with visitors and locals alike. doughboyspizza.com
Doumar’s Cones & Barbecue (Since 1934) Banana splits, cheeseburgers, limeade and carhops spring to mind when someone says Doumar’s, but beer’s here, too (dine-in only). It goes as well with N.C.-style barbecue as founder Abe Doumar’s pairing of a waffle vendor and an ice cream seller when the latter ran out of dishes at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. Four generations later, the waffle-cone machine Abe built still works. doumars.com
The Grey Goose (Since 1982) Delicious meet nutritious at this popular downtown Hampton restaurant known for its tasty and satisfying brunch, lunch, sandwiches, salads, soups (mmm…ham biscuits and Brunswick stew!) and house-made baked goods. Dana and Phillip Epstein’s sweet and savory partnership (now also finding success at The Baker’s Wife in Phoebus) has been the secret recipe at this beloved eatery since they became its stewards more than 16 years ago. greygooserestaurant.com
Freemason Abbey (Since 1989) “You are entering a historical site,” reads the sign on the door indicating that this 1873 Freemason District building was a 2nd Presbyterian Church. But it also applies to Jerry Collier’s tavern-like Americana restaurant now housed here (the bar’s stained-glass windows are original), revered for artichoke dip, she-crab soup, hand-cut steaks, apricot bread pudding, Wednesday Seafood Pairings, Friday Wild Game Night and Sunday brunch. freemasonabbey.com
Isle of Capri (Since 1952) Colorful tales about the erstwhile Laskin Road’s “Back Room” abound. But even in the Rat Pack era, the upscale Italian food was equally mythic. Chef-owner Pasquale Arcese, continuing his father’s legacy, recreates cherished family recipes at the fine dining restaurant’s longtime perch atop Holiday Inn & Suites North Beach where panoramic ocean views embellish tableside Caesars, mussels marinara, linguine alle vongole and veal parm. isleofcaprivb.com
Joe & Mimma’s (Since 1972) Sicilian immigrants Girolamo and Rosaria Buffa named their neighborhood pizza-pasta palace after their children. But they also considered employee Hung Quan Bui, a Vietnamese refugee, their own. “Mama” so trusted “Harold” with her kitchen secrets that you’d be hard-pressed to note any differences since he bought the family-friendly Grafton fave over a decade ago. His children—Girolama, Rosaria and Girolamo—pitch in here, too. joeandmimmasva.com
Kyushu (Since 1990) After three decades, Kyushu-born Mitsunori “Ebi-san” Ebigasako sold this tiny, authentic Japanese restaurant to the Li Family (husband-wife-brother), training them in the way his nigiri and sashimi have made this unassuming yet gracious Newtown Road spot a lure for sushi lovers (many of them off-duty chefs) for decades. They’re still coming for mermaid rolls and more. kyushujapanese.com
Lobscouser (Since 1987) Northerners visiting Portsmouth tell chef-owner Robert Brooks that Lobscouser (so-called because Brooks liked the sound of the Norwegian nickname for ship’s chef) feels like an old New England chowder house. Still, it’s remained on trend: adding Cajun dishes in the ’90s, listing casual in the 2000s. Affordable fried seafood platters and prime rib for landlubbers make reservations on weekends a must. lobscouser.com
Luna Maya (Since 1997) Although each incarnation from hole-in-the-wall Aragona to fashionable Ghent (first 21st Street then Colley) has grown exponentially grander, the enchantment of the Montano sisters’ comida Mexicana, embroidered with their Bolivian roots, has never waned. Unsurpassed sweet yellow corn tamales, pique a lo macho (kinda like Latin poutine), margatinis and caipirinhas plus timeless passion make this moon shine. lunamayarestaurant.com
The Monastery (Since 1983) Servers once wore monks’ robes until the draping sleeves proved hazardous around the candlelit tables, but otherwise Czech-born Anna and Adolf Jerabek’s Granby Street fine dining sanctuary in Norfolk stays the same. Well, not quite. When those who leave the area return, they say that the delectable Central European cuisine—goulash, steak tartare, roasted duck, goose (seasonal), hot apple strudel—is better than ever. 443granby.com
Monty’s Penguin (Since 1946) It’s changed hands and locations through the years but this down-home breakfast-lunch-dinner American Graffiti-ish throwback on Hilton Village’s cusp is perennially popular. New owner Stephanie Hill knows the drill—burgers, hot dogs, meatloaf, country steak, onion rings, soft-serve – she was 16 when she started waiting tables here, over two decades ago. But the Penguin, like its shakes, is frozen…in time. montyspenguin.com
No Frill Bar and Grill (Since 1987) What began as no frills, now thrills with stepped-up cocktails, salads, soups, pitas, burgers and platters (seafood, ribs, pasta) plus Sunday brunch. Its two casual locations are similar (Tiffany-style lamps, ever-updated Tom Barnes artwork) but, like siblings, unique (Hilltop’s shiny-diner venue offers milkshakes while pierogies are on Ghent’s menu). Both are beloved. nofrillgrill.com
Omar’s Carriage House (Since 1998) The much-requested tented patio, a pandemic silver lining, abides at the eponymous Omar’s, as quaint and cozy as ever with Historic Freemason District charm, a globally influenced menu encompassing moules frites, paella, tagines and burgers, Sunday brunch, monthly wine dinners and Moroccan Mondays celebrating Omar Boukhriss’ homeland. But now his daughter, Yasmine, handles day-to-day operations. She grew up in this house. omarscarriagehouse.com
Orapax (Since 1966) Louis Seretis named his Chelsea neighborhood eatery for its cross street so customers would remember the location. Serendipitously, it sounded Greek. His granddaughter Nicole took over the reins from her dad Nick, elevating the craft cocktail program, expanding the menu beyond moussaka (bowls, vegan options) and adding a covered patio (the Santorini Room) while holding fast to its Hellenic heart. orapaxrestaurant.com
Pierce’s Pitt Bar-B-Que (Since 1971) Flat broke to start, “Doc” Pierce couldn’t pay the sign maker to correct pit’s misspelling and, by way of advertising, painted the place “U-Haul orange” and “Ryder yellow” to attract hungry motorists. “Pitt” stuck and those same shades still draw folks to pulled pork and brisket so piercingly good that Williamsburg’s Pierce’s numbers among NatGeo’s “10 Best BBQ Joints in America.” pierces.com
Rockafeller’s (Since 1989) You won’t mind waiting for a table at this Rudee Inlet redoubt since a convivial lounge was installed during a sophisticated vacay-décor refresh. Naturally, you’ll lean into the plentiful sustainable seafood (oysters Rockafeller, grouper, lobstah roll, shrimp hush puppies) in this marina setting but remember that owner BJ Baumann’s late husband Frank also started Frankie’s Place for Ribs. Don’t bypass the baby backs. rockafellers.com
Steinhilber’s (Since 1939) It had us at Steiny’s shrimp. But steaks, crab cakes and homemade desserts stand out, too, where Robert Steinhilber enshrined fine dining before Virginia Beach became a city. His daughter Jeanne Steinhilber eventually took over (the breathtaking deck overlooks her working garden), and now her son Brady Viccellio is in charge. Servers appreciate old-school touches like wearing white jackets: “It suits the place.” steinys.com
Tautog’s (Since 1994) If history’s your jam, or creatively prepared coastal cuisine (tuna Martinique, stuffed flounder in a bag), this picturesque Oceanfront treasure in a preserved 1920s beach cottage is for you. Listen for the sound of the surf if you dine on the front veranda or recently enlarged side patio. Its next-door bro, Doc Taylor’s, serves up a slice of Old Beach, too, at breakfast and lunch. tautogs.com
Waterman’s Surfside Grill (Since 1981) Long-famous for Orange Crushes, Mike Standing’s Oceanfront flagship (The Shack on 8th and Chix on the Beach are his, too) gets even buzzier with organic vodkas by wife Mariah’s Waterman Spirits. They smoothly accompany usual suspects (she-crab soup, scallops) and specials like lobster ravioli in lobster bechamel and brown sugar-rubbed pork chops. Gosh, the restaurant’s chichi Beach Nut gift shop already made us tipsy. watermans.com
The Whaling Company (Since 1980) This locally owned, archetypal seafood restaurant, resembling a marine-themed attraction at neighboring Busch Gardens, was intended as a chain. It never materialized. “The concept of fresh-caught fish from the coast was tough to replicate inland back in the day,” explains Stephen York, of the opening corporate team, who bought what is essentially a family business; staffers—and their children—have been on board for decades. whalingcompany.com
But wait, there’s more!
Just a few other restaurants that keep going the distance include Aberdeen Barn Williamsburg, Baker’s Crust, Charlie’s Café, Chicho’s, Captain George’s, Harpoon Larry’s, Il Giardino, Le Yaca, Mizuno, Philly-Style Steaks & Subs, Rudee’s, TASTE and Todd Jurich’s Bistro. Look for more in future issues.
Compiled by editorial Coastal Virginia Magazine staff and contributing writers.
